Near Exmouth

The first thing we noticed as we neared Exmouth was the size and abundance of the giant termite mounds. Some of them were enormous and they dotted the green pastures in vast numbers. When we passed the giant orange prawn at the gates of the Kailis Seafood Factory, we knew we weren't far from the town.

We planned to spend our first night at the Learmonth rest area. The bus was equipped with solar panels, an inverter and a cartridge toilet, so we were able to be self-sufficient for three days before needing any kind of facilities. Of course, we were yet to test it, so our night at Learmonth Jetty was a new experience for us.

Glenn took off eagerly to throw a line in from the jetty

Once parked, Glenn took off eagerly to throw a line in from the jetty, and I didn't see him again until dark when he returned with half a dozen fish ready for the pan. He turned the power on, which gave us lights, the TV and the water pump; we didn't bother turning the fridge over to gas as we figured it would be okay for one night. We went to bed at around 11pm, impressed that we'd run for about six hours on solar without losing power. I woke up a few times in the night, the noise of the ocean keeping me awake, and I couldn't stop myself from going to the window to check outside after Glenn's off-hand comment before bed about the tide coming in while we were asleep.

Next morning we packed up and carried on to Exmouth. Glenn's dad had lived in Exmouth for three years, moving from Perth because of the cold winters; he was currently away, but due home any day. The palm tree lined main street greeted us as we drove into town. The place oozed with holiday spirit. The Visitors Centre car park was full of caravans and motorhomes and the grassed frontage of the two caravan parks were packed with tents and people.

Near Exmouth

The first thing we noticed as we neared Exmouth was the size and abundance of the giant termite mounds. Some of them were enormous and they dotted the green pastures in vast numbers. When we passed the giant orange prawn at the gates of the Kailis Seafood Factory, we knew we weren't far from the town.

We planned to spend our first night at the Learmonth rest area. The bus was equipped with solar panels, an inverter and a cartridge toilet, so we were able to be self-sufficient for three days before needing any kind of facilities. Of course, we were yet to test it, so our night at Learmonth Jetty was a new experience for us.

Glenn took off eagerly to throw a line in from the jetty

Once parked, Glenn took off eagerly to throw a line in from the jetty, and I didn't see him again until dark when he returned with half a dozen fish ready for the pan. He turned the power on, which gave us lights, the TV and the water pump; we didn't bother turning the fridge over to gas as we figured it would be okay for one night. We went to bed at around 11pm, impressed that we'd run for about six hours on solar without losing power. I woke up a few times in the night, the noise of the ocean keeping me awake, and I couldn't stop myself from going to the window to check outside after Glenn's off-hand comment before bed about the tide coming in while we were asleep.

Next morning we packed up and carried on to Exmouth. Glenn's dad had lived in Exmouth for three years, moving from Perth because of the cold winters; he was currently away, but due home any day. The palm tree lined main street greeted us as we drove into town. The place oozed with holiday spirit. The Visitors Centre car park was full of caravans and motorhomes and the grassed frontage of the two caravan parks were packed with tents and people.

Exmouth

Exmouth was an extremely popular holiday destination and many people in the south scurry to leave behind the bleakness of a cold and wet winter to enjoy Exmouth's pristine beauty and perfect temperatures. The town swells at this time of year to accommodate the families on holiday, the fishermen looking to bring in a big haul, and the grey nomads checking in on the way north to the warmer weather.

We parked at the Visitors Centre in the main street and telephoned the four caravan parks to check for vacancies, only to discover that they were either fully booked or could not accommodate our large motorhome. We looked at each other, contemplating another night at Learmonth Jetty, but then Glenn decided we should drive around to his dad's address and see if anyone was there. His dad Bob was the president of Exmouth’s Lapidary Club and often let family and friends stay at his house while he was away on his rock collecting trips.

Within an hour we were parked and settled on Glenn's dad's side lawn, having discovered that his visitors were old family friends who had known Glenn and his sister when they were kids. Keith and Joyce were happy to see us and invited us to stay. We had a terrific meal with them that evening and then spent the next few days touring the sights of Exmouth to give them the space they had come north for.

We drove out to the Cape Range National Park for the day; it cost us $10 to enter and we drove the full 70km to where Yardie Creek Gorge meets the ocean, which is as far as you can go without a 4WD. The colours of the gorges are a sheer delight and a photographer's dream.

We walked part of the walking trail along the top of the northern wall of the gorge and were delighted to see emus, wallabies and an eagle. As we worked our way back through the national park, we pulled over to check out various beaches with the intention of visiting them later in our holiday for some fishing and swimming.

Turquoise Bay is one of the most popular beaches in Exmouth for swimming and snorkelling. It is famous for its calm flat lagoon and the reef is only metres off shore, brimming with fish and coral.

Further along, we visited the Jurabi Turtle Centre. It is a unique timber-decked structure that houses a creative exhibition to inform visitors all about the turtles that visit the beach every year and instructs visitors on the correct way to observe the nesting turtles without disturbing them. Sadly, it was the wrong time of year for us to see that incredible sight.

We experienced an amazing close-up with nature when we spotted an echidna crossing the road ahead of us

A little later we were privileged to experience an amazing close-up with nature when we spotted an echidna crossing the road ahead of us. We pulled over and waited while it crossed to ensure that it made it safely to the other side. Our presence didn't bother it and it sat on the side of the road watching us while we took photographs. It was the highlight of my day.

The Vlamingh Lighthouse was our last stop on our way back to Exmouth. The views from the top of the winding road that leads to the historical site were more spectacular than words can describe. We could see for miles around on all sides, from the ranges to the sea, across the flatness of the land to the horizon, all the way to the radio towers in the distance and the caravan park below.

After our day in the Cape Range National Park, I understood why the town was flooded with tourists. Exmouth displays an extraordinary extravaganza of natural phenomenon that can't be seen anywhere else in the world.

We should all take care while visiting so this incredible spectacle can be preserved for many more years. I would hate our children to miss out on something as special as this.