Get started: Cairns…
Pack the RV and cruise along Australia's Adventure Drive
Everything is bigger in Australia. Our pineapples are bigger. Our bananas are bigger. And even our road trips are bigger... and this is probably the biggest, most awesome of the lot - The Savannah Way.
Stretching right across the top of the country, The Savannah Way stretches from Cairns in Queensland via Borroloola and Katherine in the Northern Territory to Broome in Western Australia; a drive of more than 3700km.
The road, 80 per cent of which is good quality blacktop, passes through five World Heritage-listed areas, more than 15 national parks, the world's longest lava tubes, historic gold mining towns, Outback cattle stations and a wealth of indigenous culture.
While portions of The Savannah Way are easier in a four-wheel drive, it's still possible to tackle the drive in a two-wheel drive family car. It's an easy to follow route that includes clear signage, interpretative displays, maps and brochures, as well as a comprehensive visitor information centre network for travellers.
To drive the whole way from Cairns to Broome is a massive endeavour, indeed it's an all-Aussie adventure. But not everyone has the time, or the equipment for such a big drive. This is why we suggest you tackle The Savannah Way in bite-sized pieces.
This feature will focus mainly on that portion of The Savannah Way that runs from Cairns to Normanton (715km). And the reason for this is that this section gives you a nice taste of the trip; it shows just how different the landscapes are - from the tropics to the Outback. It's all on bitumen and unlike other parts of the journey it isn't as remote or daunting for first-time RVers as other parts of The Savannah Way.
Cairns is worthy of a feature all on its own. And for most readers it'll actually be a destination in its own right; the end of a massive journey north. Indeed, there's so much to do here that it's the perfect place to spend some time and catch your breath before tackling The Savannah Way.
This lush tropical paradise is the heart of Tropical North Queensland and the gateway to the World Heritage listed Great Barrier Reef; with more than one million dives made on the reef each year, Cairns is the world's most popular dive destination.
Perched on the edge of the beautiful Coral Sea, and at the foot of tropical rainforest-covered mountain ranges Cairns is one of Australia's most picturesque and popular tourist destinations. The Reef, safe tropical rainforests (like the Daintree National Park), and even the Outback are all within easy reach.
The best place to begin a tour of Cairns is at the Cairns Gateway Centre on the Esplanade, a visit here will help you to make the most of your time in this town, and beyond.
Speaking of the Esplanade, it's the city's main attraction and is jam-packed with restaurants, cafes and bars (well, finding a good watering hole's important when you're on holidays) and so is finding a good caravan park.
Besides being a jump-off point for touring the Great Barrier Reef, there are plenty of easy-going land-based activities to get involved in. Take a look around the Casino; its rainforest simulation is worth a gander, the Cairns Regional Art Gallery is well worth a look too with loads of indigenous art on display. But whatever you do don't go past the Flecker Botanic Gardens and its Gondwanan Evolutionary Trail which explains the history of the rainforest plants.
Get started: Cairns…
Pack the RV and cruise along Australia's Adventure Drive
Everything is bigger in Australia. Our pineapples are bigger. Our bananas are bigger. And even our road trips are bigger... and this is probably the biggest, most awesome of the lot - The Savannah Way.
Stretching right across the top of the country, The Savannah Way stretches from Cairns in Queensland via Borroloola and Katherine in the Northern Territory to Broome in Western Australia; a drive of more than 3700km.
The road, 80 per cent of which is good quality blacktop, passes through five World Heritage-listed areas, more than 15 national parks, the world's longest lava tubes, historic gold mining towns, Outback cattle stations and a wealth of indigenous culture.
While portions of The Savannah Way are easier in a four-wheel drive, it's still possible to tackle the drive in a two-wheel drive family car. It's an easy to follow route that includes clear signage, interpretative displays, maps and brochures, as well as a comprehensive visitor information centre network for travellers.
To drive the whole way from Cairns to Broome is a massive endeavour, indeed it's an all-Aussie adventure. But not everyone has the time, or the equipment for such a big drive. This is why we suggest you tackle The Savannah Way in bite-sized pieces.
This feature will focus mainly on that portion of The Savannah Way that runs from Cairns to Normanton (715km). And the reason for this is that this section gives you a nice taste of the trip; it shows just how different the landscapes are - from the tropics to the Outback. It's all on bitumen and unlike other parts of the journey it isn't as remote or daunting for first-time RVers as other parts of The Savannah Way.
Cairns is worthy of a feature all on its own. And for most readers it'll actually be a destination in its own right; the end of a massive journey north. Indeed, there's so much to do here that it's the perfect place to spend some time and catch your breath before tackling The Savannah Way.
This lush tropical paradise is the heart of Tropical North Queensland and the gateway to the World Heritage listed Great Barrier Reef; with more than one million dives made on the reef each year, Cairns is the world's most popular dive destination.
Perched on the edge of the beautiful Coral Sea, and at the foot of tropical rainforest-covered mountain ranges Cairns is one of Australia's most picturesque and popular tourist destinations. The Reef, safe tropical rainforests (like the Daintree National Park), and even the Outback are all within easy reach.
The best place to begin a tour of Cairns is at the Cairns Gateway Centre on the Esplanade, a visit here will help you to make the most of your time in this town, and beyond.
Speaking of the Esplanade, it's the city's main attraction and is jam-packed with restaurants, cafes and bars (well, finding a good watering hole's important when you're on holidays) and so is finding a good caravan park.
Besides being a jump-off point for touring the Great Barrier Reef, there are plenty of easy-going land-based activities to get involved in. Take a look around the Casino; its rainforest simulation is worth a gander, the Cairns Regional Art Gallery is well worth a look too with loads of indigenous art on display. But whatever you do don't go past the Flecker Botanic Gardens and its Gondwanan Evolutionary Trail which explains the history of the rainforest plants.
Cairns to Mareeba
How long it takes you to get from Cairns to Normanton and beyond is entirely up to you, keep the pedal to the metal and you could make it in less than three or four days. But where's the fun in rushing? Take your time, amble along and soak up the sights and sounds of The Savannah Way.
Sitting just an hour west of Cairns, Mareeba (in the Atherton Tablelands) is the first major stop on The Savannah Way. Settled in 1877, the town of Mareeba is considered the heart of the Australian tropical fruit and coffee industries. Want proof? Take a tour around the Golden Pride Mango Winery, or De Brueys Boutique Winery and sample some of their tropical fruit wines. But if coffee is more your cup of, well, coffee then a visit to either North Queensland Gold Coffee Plantation or The Coffee Works is a must. You can tour the plantations and the blending rooms and then you can buy a bag of your favourite blend.
Mareeba is also the commercial hub of the Cape York and Gulf cattle industries; each week the saleyards heave with livestock being sold herd-by-herd. In July, tourists get a chance to get up close and personal with the action as the Mareeba Annual Rodeo gets into full swing. In August, the Mareeba Multicultural Festival celebrates the regions immigrant past.
There are loads of wildlife parks to visit, and the privately-run Granite Gorge allows tourists to feed and pat, and thus help to preserve, the endangered Mareeba Rock Wallaby. Similarly, the Mareeba Tropical Savannah and Wetland Reserve, a 5000-acre sanctuary, is part of an ambitious project to reintroduce the endangered Gouldian Finch, also known as the Jewel of Mareeba.
Take a ride in a hot air balloon, stroll through the Mareeba Heritage Museum, or just kick back and enjoy a cold beer. Even though it's only an hour from Cairns it's well worth spending a couple of days exploring this town.
Mareeba to Ravenshoe
Just south of Mareeba and on the road to Ravenshoe is Atherton. Atherton was the first town settled in the region, and is a quaint Cairns Highlands town. The main attraction in town is the historic steam train taking passenger on a 44km journey to Herberton, via wetlands and mountain ranges. The train stops in Herberton where the country's first tin deposit was found back in 1880.
From Atherton hit the road again and keep heading towards Ravenshoe. If you aren't going to overnight in Mareeba then Ravenshoe is probably a top spot to park up for the night.
Ravenshoe, which, at 930m is the highest town in Queensland, is an old timber town trying to reinvent itself. Timber felling ended back in 1987 and since then Ravenshoe has become one of the regions most vibrant and exciting towns. It's become a Mecca for creative types and the local Writers Group has won a host of national awards.
But the town hasn't forgotten its past and the historic Millstream Express, which runs every Saturday and Sunday between April and January, winds its way through the awesome, once logged, forests surrounding the Millstream River.
Just outside of town is an awesome wind generator farm on the aptly named Windy Hill, and if you're keen to escape the hustle and bustle then you could always park your rig at Koombooloomba Dam which offers safe swimming and great fishing.
If you decide not to stay in Mareeba then it's probably worth pushing on a bit to either the Undara lava tubes or Mt Garnett. There are plenty of caravan parks to choose from.
Ravenshoe to Mt Surprise
Heading from Ravenshoe towards Mt Surprise sees you leave the Atherton Tablelands behind and start travelling through the Gulf Savannah which is often called the 'Outback by the Sea'. But let's not get ahead of ourselves.
Just south of Ravenshoe is the Innot Hot Springs and these are well worth a look and even a dip. The hot springs of Nettle Creek are open to the public and all the way along the creek hot water bubbles up through the sand. And right next door to Nettle Creek are the spas and pools of Hot Springs Village; the water can reach a temperature of 75 degrees.
From the hot springs head to the Undara Volcanic National Park which is one of Australia's most amazing natural wonders. The Savannah Guide Station at Undara Experience offers a number of different tour options for exploring the largest lava tubes system on earth.
Mt Surprise is the first town you'll come across on your way from Ravenshoe. And you really do get a surprise as the lushness of the Atherton Tablelands gives way to meandering rivers, bushland and, as the locals say, magnificent sunsets.
The town itself offers the usual services you'd expect from an Outback town, although it's worth noting most fuel stations close around 6pm (the same goes for right across the Top End). Despite being a service hub for surrounding cattle stations, Mt Surprise is an amateur prospector's dream come true; a fossicking permit is needed.
But if you're not too keen to pick about in the rocks seeking your fortune, you could always take a trip on the Savannahlander, a 1960s train running short tours between Mt Surprise and Einasleigh.
Mt Surprise to Croydon
The countryside between Mt Surprise and Croydon is all low-lying hills and savannah bushland... it's Outback Australia. And the town of Croydon is one of the best preserved gold-mining towns you're ever likely to come across. In the 1880s, Croydon was the heart of what became Australia's last major gold rush. Gold was first discovered in 1885 by Tom McAvoy who was under contract to WC Brown, owner of Croydon Downs cattle station. The town became an overnight 'boom town' and by 1898, the Croydon field had yielded more than 760,000 ounces of gold.
Today the town relies on grazing and tourism, and for history buffs Croydon is a must see. A number of historical sites have been conserved or restored. The Police Precinct with jail, courthouse, working mine museum, Chinese temple (which offers an insight into how the Chinese goldminers lived and worked), old hospital and the town hall are just a few worth mentioning.
Besides the historical significance of Croydon, locals pride themselves on their hospitality. Whether it's a dip of a hat or a wave and a cheery smile as you pass by you'll always feel welcome in Croydon.
If you're after an Outback experience with a difference enquire at the Croydon Information Centre about staying on one of the local cattle stations. Quite a few stations out here offer holiday makers the chance to help out on the farm and experience Outback life. But before you head out of town make sure you enjoy a cold one at the Club Hotel; it holds the last of 122 liquor licences issued on the Croydon goldfields.
Croydon to Normanton
Just like Croydon, Normanton is one of those towns that you just fall in love with. And while it's not as big as Croydon, prawn fishing at nearby Karumba is helping to stimulate growth, and the once important port is again enjoying happy times.
Normanton started life, back in 1865, as a port town servicing the Gulf of Carpentaria's cattle industry and grew massively in importance when gold was discovered in Croydon. There was even talk at the time it would takeover from Darwin as the most important port in the region.
But that wasn't to be, the gold ran out in Croydon and the railway which was being pushed further south towards Mt Isa saw the cattle farmers drift south, too. Things are now on the up and up, though.
No visit to Normanton would be complete without enjoying a drink at the 'Purple Pub' or taking a look at the former Bank of New South Wales which looks more like a house than a bank. The town's biggest drawcard is probably 'The Gulflander' which runs between Normanton and Croydon. The historic train was originally intended to service the beef industry but the discovery of gold in Croydon altered its course. It now runs between the two towns just once a week. It also offers a variety of 3hour tourist rides. Enquire at the station. Oh, and don't forget to have a photo taken with Krys the crocodile. Caught and killed in 1957, Kry is reputed to be the largest crocodile ever caught anywhere in the world - he was 8.63m long.
From Normanton to Broome…
Normanton's where you say goodbye to the blacktop, the road from here through to Ngukurr in the Northern Territory is dirt. Most of it's in good condition and can be driven on (as long as you're careful) with a two-wheel drive. But only four-wheel drives towing suitable caravans should attempt this part of The Savannah Way during the Wet Season (see breakout). And even then the road can sometimes be closed to all traffic.
From Ngukurr the rest of The Savannah Way is on first-rate bitumen, taking you through some of the country's oldest and most spectacular landscape. This drive really is one of the world's best adventure drives and being able to drag a caravan along it makes it even more special. Like no other drive route the Savannah Way gives you a real sense of the pioneering spirit of early Australians, be they black or white.
The Savannah Way finishes up in Broome and while the town is more sedate than Cairns (The Savannah Way's starting point) it's equally as beautiful. Watching the sun set from Cable beach is an experience like no other. But words and photos can't do this drive justice, you've got to experience it for yourself... so go on, get packing and go.
The Weather
The tropical savannahs lie in a climatic zone characterised by two distinct seasons: the 'wet' and the 'dry'. The wet summer months, December to March, are hot and humid, in contrast to the dry winter months of May to October which are cooler and have less rain.
Truck Parking Bays
As tempting as it might be, don't park in a truck parking bay. These bays are provided exclusively for the use of trucks and road trains to allow drivers to park their rigs safely while taking rest breaks. There are plenty of rest areas provided for regular fatigue breaks, and there are also a number of camping and caravan park facilities for overnight stops.
Road side stops
Those road side rivers and billabongs might look inviting but don't be tempted to pull over and take a dip. There's a good chance, particularly in northern Queensland and the Northern Territory that those bodies of water will be home to freshwater and maybe even saltwater crocodiles. And they don't make for very friendly swimming partners - only swim in designated areas.
Outback Travel Tips
- Make sure your rig is in top condition; have it serviced before you head off.
- Check on road conditions before you leave. The condition of unsealed roads varies according to the weather, usage and how often they are graded. Unsealed roads can be excellent just after grading but poor before the next grading. It is important to check road conditions before travelling. See RACQ; Road Report; Mainroads WA.
- Make sure you have plenty of drinking water (when it's very hot you might need as much as five litres per person each day.
- Always tell someone where you're going and roughly how long you'll be away.
- If you breakdown, don't leave your RV under any circumstances.
- A portion of The Savannah Way is on dirt roads and dust can obscure vision, so be careful around dawn and dusk as it's harder to see wildlife like kangaroos and emus.
- Slow down on unsealed roads, the same goes for corners where there's a chance of sliding, or worse, if you're going too quickly. And be vigilant for hidden dangers like dust-filled holes or soft edges.
- Beware of road trains, some can be towing up to three trailers - treat these guys with respect.
- Make sure you see your GP before heading off and take all scripts and maybe even a potted medical history with you.
- Carry an HF radio compatible with the Royal Flying Doctor Service. Mobile phones and CB radios will not work in remote areas. You can buy a Flying Doctor HF radio from most two-way communication centres or you can hire one from RFDS bases. You could also hire a satellite phone for use in emergencies.
Article published in Caravan + RV magazine, Autumn 2007. Words Isaac Bober, photos Tourism Queensland.
Where to Stay
Cairns Coconut Caravan Resort: This park, only 7min from the city centre, sits on 28 acres and has won a massive 12 tourism awards over the years. There's a city courtesy bus from the park and the park's tour desk can organise and book all tours.
First City Caravilla: Sitting in lush surrounds, First City Caravilla is a tradtional-style caravan park, meaning value for money without all the fancy gimmicks. The park has negotiated special tour rates for patrons so it's worth talking to them before you book any tours.
Cairns Villa & Leisure Park: Located on around 10 acres of lush parkland, Cairns Villa & Leisure Park offers accommodation to suit all tastes and budgets and can take larger caravans and motorhomes up to 20m.
If none of these caravan parks takes your fancy there are more than 10 others in and around Cairns to choose from.
Cairns has a tropical climate, with generally hot and humid summers and milder dryer winters. The majority of Cairn's rainfall occurs between January and March.
January: 24-32°C
July: 17-26°C
Cairns Coconut Caravan Resort: This park, only 7min from the city centre, sits on 28 acres and has won a massive 12 tourism awards over the years. There's a city courtesy bus from the park and the park's tour desk can organise and book all tours.
First City Caravilla: Sitting in lush surrounds, First City Caravilla is a tradtional-style caravan park, meaning value for money without all the fancy gimmicks. The park has negotiated special tour rates for patrons so it's worth talking to them before you book any tours.
Cairns Villa & Leisure Park: Located on around 10 acres of lush parkland, Cairns Villa & Leisure Park offers accommodation to suit all tastes and budgets and can take larger caravans and motorhomes up to 20m.
If none of these caravan parks takes your fancy there are more than 10 others in and around Cairns to choose from.
If you're keen to escape the hustle and bustle then you could always park your rig at Koombooloomba Dam which offers safe swimming and great fishing.
Undara Experience: The Undara Experience offers a range of accommodation types, and even caters for RVers.
Innot Hot Springs Leisure & Health Park: If you haven't had enough of the hot springs then why not spend the night in this caravan park. For rates and more information, tel: (07) 4097 0136.
Mt Garnet Travellers Park: Mt Garnet is a little way off the The Savannah Way but it's not too far away. For rates and more information on this caravan park, tel: (07) 4097 4335.
BP Mt Garnet Motel/Caravan Park: Staying at this park puts you nice and close to fuel and out here it's a good idea to fill up when you can. For rates and more information, tel: (07) 4097 9249.
Gulfland Caravan Park: This is one of three caravan parks to choose from. For rates and more information, tel:
(07) 4745 1290.
Leichhardt Lagoon Camping Park: Named in honour of explorer Ludwig Leichhardt, this park offers easy access to all there is to see and do in Normanton. For rates and more information, tel: (07) 4745 1330.
Normanton Tourist Park: This is a little piece of paradise in the Gulf Savannah and is within walking distance to everything in Normanton. It's a great base from which to head out and try and catch a barra, or two. For rates and more information, tel: (07) 4745 1121.
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