Lower mountains

Blue Mountains local Pat Callinan is slightly biased about his local patch of paradise

For some reason unbeknown to me, the Blue Mountains of NSW aren't on the 'must-see' list for most Aussie RVers. There aren't ten tourist parks bulging at the seams with vans and whizz-bang motorhomes, and there are precious few grey nomads prowling the shops. Instead, there are countless backpacker hostels and blokes named Sven with tanned women named Heidi by their sides. And they're enjoying what I reckon are some of the best attractions Australia has to offer. In fact, at last count, 83 per cent of tourists in the Blue Mountains were from overseas. Why? Beats me. Having lived in the mountains for the best part of the last decade, I reckon I've learned a thing or two about the things that are worth seeing in the Blue Mountains, and some places, well, you'll never find on a tourist map. But heck, we're all friends here, so allow me to share.

The best time to visit the Blue Mountains is during the summer months. The wild flowers are in bloom, and the air is warm and clean. It's not always crystal-clear though. The haze that puts the 'Blue' in Blue Mountains is due to a gas emitted from gum leaves local to the area. Summer temps are pretty mild compared to the rest of the state, with tops of 21 to 24 degrees being common in summer. Don't get me wrong, the winter months are great too, with heavy mist often engulfing the mountains, but it can be bloody freezing (so cold, you'll almost want an open fire in your camper).

There are two ways of crossing the mountains from Sydney to the west - one is via the Bells Line of Road, and the other the Great Western Highway. We'll cover the latter in this yarn, and it's actually the original route which was first discovered by explorers Blaxland, Wentworth and Lawson. Our trek begins in the lower mountains. Barely a minute after you've climbed the bendy Lapstone Hill, you'll see a nice pull-off bay with plenty of room for all-sized rigs, right up to fifth-wheelers. There's a tourist information centre here, so it's a fine place to stock up on brochures and up-to-date info.

If you're looking for a campsite down this end of the mountains, you've got a few options. There's Glenbrook National Park, which has lots of wide-open spaces and tame kangaroos. The park has a rich aboriginal heritage, and you can access rock paintings via a few short walks. However, there are no powered campsites, and after heavy rain, the causeway can be impassable.

Unfortunately, this end of the Blue Mountains has no caravan parks, however, there are two parks down on the flat at Emu Plains and Penrith. The Penrith park would be my pick, because it's right across the road from the river (Nepean River Holiday Village, Tel: (02) 4735 6301).

If you want a spot of morning tea or lunch, I'd recommend taking the left turn into the Glenbrook town centre. It's a great little village, with a few top café's, like Mash and Café Cee. Trust me, you won't be disappointed with the coffee or the tucker.

As you head further up the hill, just past the suburb of Linden, you'll see a sign on the right for the Bulls Camp rest area. This is a large grassy area (with feral toilets), which is fine for an impromptu overnight camp. I wouldn't recommend it for a week-long stay, unless of course you're completely skint. If you take the first Woodford turn-off and don't mind about 10 minutes of dirt road driving, then Murphy's Glen is a nice secluded campsite. Again, facilities are sparse, but it's quiet, has fireplaces and is rarely busy.

Lower mountains

Blue Mountains local Pat Callinan is slightly biased about his local patch of paradise

For some reason unbeknown to me, the Blue Mountains of NSW aren't on the 'must-see' list for most Aussie RVers. There aren't ten tourist parks bulging at the seams with vans and whizz-bang motorhomes, and there are precious few grey nomads prowling the shops. Instead, there are countless backpacker hostels and blokes named Sven with tanned women named Heidi by their sides. And they're enjoying what I reckon are some of the best attractions Australia has to offer. In fact, at last count, 83 per cent of tourists in the Blue Mountains were from overseas. Why? Beats me. Having lived in the mountains for the best part of the last decade, I reckon I've learned a thing or two about the things that are worth seeing in the Blue Mountains, and some places, well, you'll never find on a tourist map. But heck, we're all friends here, so allow me to share.

The best time to visit the Blue Mountains is during the summer months. The wild flowers are in bloom, and the air is warm and clean. It's not always crystal-clear though. The haze that puts the 'Blue' in Blue Mountains is due to a gas emitted from gum leaves local to the area. Summer temps are pretty mild compared to the rest of the state, with tops of 21 to 24 degrees being common in summer. Don't get me wrong, the winter months are great too, with heavy mist often engulfing the mountains, but it can be bloody freezing (so cold, you'll almost want an open fire in your camper).

There are two ways of crossing the mountains from Sydney to the west - one is via the Bells Line of Road, and the other the Great Western Highway. We'll cover the latter in this yarn, and it's actually the original route which was first discovered by explorers Blaxland, Wentworth and Lawson. Our trek begins in the lower mountains. Barely a minute after you've climbed the bendy Lapstone Hill, you'll see a nice pull-off bay with plenty of room for all-sized rigs, right up to fifth-wheelers. There's a tourist information centre here, so it's a fine place to stock up on brochures and up-to-date info.

If you're looking for a campsite down this end of the mountains, you've got a few options. There's Glenbrook National Park, which has lots of wide-open spaces and tame kangaroos. The park has a rich aboriginal heritage, and you can access rock paintings via a few short walks. However, there are no powered campsites, and after heavy rain, the causeway can be impassable.

Unfortunately, this end of the Blue Mountains has no caravan parks, however, there are two parks down on the flat at Emu Plains and Penrith. The Penrith park would be my pick, because it's right across the road from the river (Nepean River Holiday Village, Tel: (02) 4735 6301).

If you want a spot of morning tea or lunch, I'd recommend taking the left turn into the Glenbrook town centre. It's a great little village, with a few top café's, like Mash and Café Cee. Trust me, you won't be disappointed with the coffee or the tucker.

As you head further up the hill, just past the suburb of Linden, you'll see a sign on the right for the Bulls Camp rest area. This is a large grassy area (with feral toilets), which is fine for an impromptu overnight camp. I wouldn't recommend it for a week-long stay, unless of course you're completely skint. If you take the first Woodford turn-off and don't mind about 10 minutes of dirt road driving, then Murphy's Glen is a nice secluded campsite. Again, facilities are sparse, but it's quiet, has fireplaces and is rarely busy.

Leura and Katoomba

Heading west up the mountain again, make sure you take the left turn at the Pot Shop onto Kings Tablelands Road. Then take a right turn a few kilometres further on along Hordern Road, followed by a left at the T-section. The road is dirt here, but start looking to find a park because you've arrived. You'll see a well-worn path onto the sandstone escarpment, before being captivated by some of the best views in the mountains. And the best thing? There are no signs to get here, so you'll never have to share it with 1000 other humans (which can't be said for the Three Sisters later on). I told you I'd give you some local knowledge. Soak up the views, they're quite inspiring.

I'm yet to meet a woman who doesn't just luuurve Leura. It's a place where Sydney's wealthy come to spend their holidays and their hard-earned cash, so it has a thriving shopping and B&B scene. Unfortunately for us, the Blue Mountains Council closed the Leura Caravan Park a few years back. If you want to park your rig though, best to take a left on Leura Mall onto Megalong St, and there's a good car park with lots of drive-thru spaces. Now it's time to be careful gents and know where your credit card is hidden. There are loads of specialty shops where women have been known to go nuts, from dress shops to those selling crafts, art and nick-knacks. The Candy Shop is certainly worth a look, and has to be one of the best-stocked in Australia.

Yet certainly the best wonders the Blue Mountains have to offer are the natural ones. They are, after all, situated within a World Heritage National Park. The one 'must-see' natural wonder is the Three Sisters, at Echo Point via Katoomba. There used to be seven sisters, but weather and erosion have reduced them to three. Scientists believe these rocks have survived two (count 'em) ice ages. Yet the Aboriginal story is far more interesting. The local Kedumba people believe that the three sisters from one local tribe fell in love with three brothers from a rival tribe down on the Nepean River. The girls' father (a witch-doctor) was unhappy, so he turned his daughters to stone to prevent them from marrying.

While you're in Katoomba, you'll be bombarded by all sorts of tourist attractions vying for your dollar, but one that gets this local boy's approval is the Blue Mountains Chocolate factory. They make their own chocolates here, to a standard which is closer to art than food. And their signature dish is their hot chocolate, where they give you the chocolate, and you stir it into milk over a flame. Yum! Their chocolate milkshakes are unbelievably good too, and taste like they've been injected with real chocky.

One of the most popular attractions in the Blue Mountains is Scenic World. It offers a great way of capturing the views, depending on which shade of brown you'd like your undies. There's the ancient old scenic railway (slightly worrying), the Scenic Cableway (a little more scary) and the clear floored Scenic Skyway (why am I doing this again?!). All are a great experience, but in peak seasons this place can get packed as the tourist buses move in. I'd recommend either early morning or late 'arvo sessions to beat the buses. If you follow the road around past Scenic World, you can get some pretty special views for free.

Another great (and free) attraction is Leura Cascades. It´s nestled on the winding road between Leura and Katoomba, at the junction of two creeks. Up near the carpark, you can experience some beautiful parks, a waterfall and beautiful tree ferns. However, take the (sometimes damp and muddy) trek 500m down, and you can experience the best that the cascades have to offer. The track sits right next to the water as it rolls and dives over flattened patches of sandstone, before settling in a pool at the bottom.

Blackheath and beyond

Heading further west from Leura and Katoomba, you soon come upon Blackheath. Turn right at the lights, and you'll be deposited at Govett's Leap in the National Park, a massive Grand Canyon-esque area with stunning views and a waterfall. On the southern side of the mountain at Blackheath (or by turning left at those lights), is the majestic Megalong Valley. The road down here is windy with plenty of hairpin turns, although you could still take a 'van if required.

At the base of the bends, the road runs next to a crystal-clear creek under a rainforest canopy. It's really pretty, and there are a couple of walking tracks that have been worn through the scrub. If you keep following this road right down into the valley (for another 10 minutes), you'll find the Megalong Valley Heritage Farm, complete with its own guesthouse and licensed bistro (open only in peak periods).

Heading further west will take you to great places like the Zig-Zag Railway and Jenolan Caves. All in all, the Blue Mountains is a great and unique experience for the senses, and is worthy of a higher priority for Aussie RV tourers. But then, I am a local.

For more info on this trip and the whole region visit the Greater Blue Mountains Drive.

Words by Pat Callinan. Photos by Pat Callinan and NSW Tourism. Article published in Caravan + RV magazine, Autumn 2008.