Succulent seafood

Take your foot off the accelerator, wind down the window and enjoy the ride as you cruise the pristine coastline from Whyalla to Ceduna exploring the Seafood & Aquaculture Trail around the Eyre Peninsula.

The Eyre Peninsula is one of those places where a holiday is just that. It's a complete and utter break from everything you would normally do; get up early, wear a suit, or whatever. And to get the most out a holiday around here you've got to slow right down. Wear your shorts. Wear your thongs and just chill out.

The sun is almost always shining on the Eyre Peninsula, the beaches are great, the locals are friendly and stress doesn't exist. But best of all, the seafood is the best in the whole country.

That's why we've put together this piece. It's specifically aimed at helping you drive your way from seafood stop to seafood stop. Seaside holidays don't get any better. Indeed, this is what a coastal holiday should be all about.

This trip is tailor-made for RVers who just want to amble from town to town. Indeed most of the towns on this tour are less than 100 kilometres apart. And that makes this one of the easiest, stress-free RV drives in the country.

Yep, follow the Seafood & Aquaculture Trail and your stomach will have the time of its life. And while this tour is specifically aimed at enjoying the regions seafood, well, there's plenty to do besides, if you're not too fussed about stuff. Actually, let me rephrase that, there's bugger-all else to do besides fishing, swimming and relaxing and that makes this place the country's best holiday destination.

Succulent seafood

Take your foot off the accelerator, wind down the window and enjoy the ride as you cruise the pristine coastline from Whyalla to Ceduna exploring the Seafood & Aquaculture Trail around the Eyre Peninsula.

The Eyre Peninsula is one of those places where a holiday is just that. It's a complete and utter break from everything you would normally do; get up early, wear a suit, or whatever. And to get the most out a holiday around here you've got to slow right down. Wear your shorts. Wear your thongs and just chill out.

The sun is almost always shining on the Eyre Peninsula, the beaches are great, the locals are friendly and stress doesn't exist. But best of all, the seafood is the best in the whole country.

That's why we've put together this piece. It's specifically aimed at helping you drive your way from seafood stop to seafood stop. Seaside holidays don't get any better. Indeed, this is what a coastal holiday should be all about.

This trip is tailor-made for RVers who just want to amble from town to town. Indeed most of the towns on this tour are less than 100 kilometres apart. And that makes this one of the easiest, stress-free RV drives in the country.

Yep, follow the Seafood & Aquaculture Trail and your stomach will have the time of its life. And while this tour is specifically aimed at enjoying the regions seafood, well, there's plenty to do besides, if you're not too fussed about stuff. Actually, let me rephrase that, there's bugger-all else to do besides fishing, swimming and relaxing and that makes this place the country's best holiday destination.

Whyalla

It is here that the Seafood Trail begins in earnest, 400 kilometres north-west of Adelaide, on the Eyre Peninsula. Whyalla was once known as "Steel City", but since metal manufacturing started being scaled back in the late '90s it has been slowly but successfully transforming itself into a tourist destination. With its friendly locals and bright boast of "301 days of sunshine" annually it seems on the right track, too.

More than that, Whyalla (which sits on Franklin Harbour) is actually one of the best fishing spots in South Australia. The harbour is a 48 sq.km almost land-locked bay with a very narrow entrance allowing boats (both private and commercial) to fish the harbour's calm, tranquil waters.

The variety of the local catch is well known, and as well as spotted and silver whiting, snapper, snook, tommy ruff, mullet, flathead, garfish, squid and razorfish, a special attraction is going night crabbing in the quiet shallows.

But if your idea of fishing is throwing silver bait over a counter to catch your seafood then head to the Watersedge restaurant which is attached to the Foreshore, because it has some excellent seafood on offer, including locally farmed kingfish from Fitzgerald Bay. This comes served either as a grilled main or as mirin-marinated sashimi, both of which are simply delicious. Lush oysters from nearby Cowell Bay are also on the menu.

While in Whyalla, don't forget to, although you could hardly miss it, check out the striking art deco architecture in the town centre. The Hotel Bay View and Hotel Spencer are examples of this, both built on the back of the steel boom that occurred here in the 1940s.

Where to stay

Whyalla Caravan Park
T: 1800 828 012
Email

Cowell

Like its more famous southerly cousin Coffin Bay, Cowell is well-known for its Pacific Bay oysters, which are supplied to local and interstate eating establishments such as Rockpool and Christie's in Sydney.

At Turner Aquaculture, you can see how the oysters are processed and graded, as well as enjoy a complimentary tasting. The tour includes a trip to the oyster beds in Franklin Harbour to see where it all begins. It's worth noting that oyster farming in Franklin Harbour is only a relatively new, but now thriving, industry. Indeed, a large percentage of South Australia's oyster supply came from Cowell last year (2006). Fin fish farming is also conducted in the harbour and, although in its infancy, is a growing industry in Cowell.

If that whets your appetite, drop in to the and top up your vitamin A intake with one (or more) of the 20 different oyster dishes on the menu. Be warned, though, that a "Chooky Monster" and a "Meat Monster" roam the bars selling raffle tickets. If you can run up a bar tab of exactly $49.97, publican Nigel Pratt throws in a free Chooky Club tie. It's best you ask him why for an explanation.

The Cowell Museum has a good display of local history. The nearby Point Gibbon Coastal Ketches Trail revives the romanticism of the wooden sailing ketches that once worked this coastline, transporting stores of wheat. The rocky red coastal cliffs soon give way to large sandy dunes, where the beach is home to a small sea lion colony. There is a public camping ground at Point Gibbon and less formal camping spots amongst the dunes. A 4WD is recommended to best experience the trail.

Arno Bay

Next stop on the trail is Arno Bay. But before that you'll pass the Mt Millar wind farm, where 35 wind turbines have been operating since 2006. Combined, they generate over 70 megawatts of electricity - enough for more than 35,000 homes. Arno Bay began life as a shipping port servicing the local farming districts, when superphosphate was brought in and cereal crops were sent out. The jetty, an old beacon, historical monuments and the original 'super' shed still stand as a reminder of this era. The town was proclaimed in 1883 under the name of Bligh, but renamed in 1940.

Arno Bay is considered the home of the Kingfish and once you've arrived make sure you lob into the Hotel Arno for a kingfish burger 'n' chips.

Surrounded by a sea of 'samphire' and other vegetation, Arno Bay is a popular seaside resort ideally situated midway between Port Lincoln and Whyalla. Alluring beach, jetty, foreshore and creek areas, combined with the mild climate and peaceful atmosphere contribute to a most relaxing holiday.

Thirty kilometres further south is Tumby Bay, home to a very Aussie tourist attraction, Bob Dobbins' Barbed Wire & Fencing Collection. Another 40km south is Port Neill. Vic and Jill Fauser run a museum of restored vintage cars, motorbikes and steam engines here. It's well worth a visit.

At the time of writing, Sea SA had just opened the Wallaroo to Lucky Bay (near Cowell) car & passenger ferry service. The journey takes approximately two hours. If travelling from Adelaide add on 1.5 hours to reach Wallaroo. Fares vary, so either call Sea SA direct on 08 8823 0777 or check online at Sea SA.

Port Lincoln

Port Lincoln marks the halfway point and most southerly tip of the trail. It's also a terrific spot to unpack the bags and stay a few days.

Port Lincoln touts itself as the "Seafood Capital of Australia" and it does a pretty good job of living up to its billing. From ocean to table you can experience every facet of the local seafood culture.

The jewel in Port Lincoln's crown is the sparkling blue Boston Bay, whose encircling arms stretch from the tip of Port Lincoln National Park to Point Boston. The bay covers an area more than 3.5-times the size of Sydney Harbour.

Cradled between these two arms is Boston Island just 5km off the Port Lincoln coast, creating a vast expanse of sheltered water for small boat fishing and day sailing.

Kingfish and tuna are farmed locally in pens out in Boston Bay, with tour companies providing guided visits of the facilities. Matt Waller and his Star Charter Tours crew will take you around their self-owned and operated . If the urge takes you, Matt will let you jump right in and swim with the tuna, feed them by hand or even hook your own - though at $35/kg it could prove an expensive catch.

The Port Lincoln Fresh Fish Co has guided tours of its processing facility. It sells samples of the local produce also.

By now your tastebuds have been well tantalised and it's time to splurge. For something a little upmarket try Moorings Restaurant at the Grand Tasman. Specialising in local seafood it is regarded as one of the best places to eat on the peninsula. More low-key but surely satisfying is the Café Del Giorno and a number of choice fish 'n' chip take-away joints. Such an easy meal while watching the sun set over the fishing trawlers at Lincoln Cove Marina is a delight.

If you're visiting Port Lincoln on the Australia Day long weekend you'd better look up. The John West Tuna Toss is held annually as part of the Tunarama Festival, with flying fish the order of the day.

Where to stay

Port Lincoln Accommodation
T: (08) 8621 4444
E: reservations@portlincolnaccommodation.com

Coffin Bay

Coffin Bay marks the start of the last leg of the trail. Named after Sir Isaac Coffin, a friend of the explorer Matthew Finders, the town is a haven for both local and interstate holidaymakers. Recreation includes fishing for wild salmon, pleasure boating, exploring the adjacent national park and, of course, sampling the world-famous local oysters.

Coffin Bay is an unspoilt family holiday retreat, so much so that its permanent population of around 430 swells to more than 2000 in summer, a sure indication of its popularity. Coffin Bay provides the ultimate escape from big city pressures. Indeed, very few locations are more ideally suited for fishing (rock, surf, angling and boat), or as safe for boating, sailing, swimming, water-skiing, skin-diving and wind-surfing as Coffin Bay.

Oyster Walk: A delightful 8km walkway meanders its way around the picturesque foreshore through natural bushland from the caravan park to Crinolin Point, and to the lookout in the National Park. This is as far as the road goes for us. But if you want to keep on the trail, well, it heads north, taking in Pedros Crayfish Tours at Elliston and the Abalone Farm at Streaky Bay along the way, before arriving at the final destination, Ceduna.

If you love your seafood, or are after a slowed-down holiday, then check out the Seafood & Aquaculture Trail.

Article published in Caravan + RV magazine, Autumn 2007. Words and photos Vincent Long.