By the sea
Taking a dip at Bondi beach or watching the sun set over Uluru are must-dos if you're to call yourself a true Aussie, so is a lap of Mt Panorama. And so is driving along the Great Ocean Road - so that's what we did.
Torquay is home to the world's most important surfing beach - Bells. I used to feel left out at backyard barbies, and I was constantly ridiculed at the pub whenever talk turned to the Great Ocean Road. I'd have nothing to say, you see. Because, until very recently, I'd never been anywhere near that snaking strip of blacktop. A road that is considered as one of the finest coastal drives in the world. All of my friends had. And so, no doubt, have you...
The Great Ocean Road twists and turns for more than 400km, stretching from Geelong in the east to Nelson in the west. Built to make travel easier along the Victorian south-west coastline, and keep returned ANZACs off the street, the Great Ocean Road unwittingly became one of the country's greatest attractions. Indeed a monument to the Diggers was recently unveiled at Eastern View; it stands as a reminder that this road was made by hand, and not machine.
Work began on the Great Ocean Road back in 1918 and was completed 14, back-broken and blistered, years later in 1932 - it takes just hours to drive from one end to the other; a journey that before the road was built used to take days.
But, to be honest, you’d be mad to attempt the Great Ocean Road in a day. Not if you want to unwind and soak up the flavour of the place. I mean, each little township you pass through feels a million miles away from the last place, and they might only be a couple of kays apart. There are a bunch of caravan parks to stay at, either in the towns or just out of ’em, and some are literally on the water’s edge or just across the road from it.
On our drive we saw plenty of caravans being towed along and quite a few motorhomes too, and while the Great Ocean Road is tight in some sections, if you take it easy you'll be fine. Also, to keep traffic from bottling up, there are a number of turn-in bays and lookouts dotted along the road. Just be aware that at certain times of the year some lookouts will have parking meters on them.
But let's rewind. Due to some great timing by me (I'd planned to drive the Great Ocean Road right in the middle of the RV show season) not a single manufacturer had anything for us to test. However, Britz was smack in the middle of launching its latest recruit: the Rookie - a Volkswagen designed and built camper. Sure it doesn't have a kitchen, or a shower and toilet, but it's got a bed, an annexe and a small fridge for keeping sandwiches and drinks cool; it's ideal for weekends away. And it suited us perfectly.
The gang at Britz showed me how the tent fitted onto the tail-gate, how the seats folded down and then how the bed (it's a proper, comfy mattress) folds across the top of them, etc. I was impressed. Anyway, with the brain-bending stuff out of the way I waved goodbye to Britz, and snapper Phil and I hit the road.
By the sea
Taking a dip at Bondi beach or watching the sun set over Uluru are must-dos if you're to call yourself a true Aussie, so is a lap of Mt Panorama. And so is driving along the Great Ocean Road - so that's what we did.
Torquay is home to the world's most important surfing beach - Bells. I used to feel left out at backyard barbies, and I was constantly ridiculed at the pub whenever talk turned to the Great Ocean Road. I'd have nothing to say, you see. Because, until very recently, I'd never been anywhere near that snaking strip of blacktop. A road that is considered as one of the finest coastal drives in the world. All of my friends had. And so, no doubt, have you...
The Great Ocean Road twists and turns for more than 400km, stretching from Geelong in the east to Nelson in the west. Built to make travel easier along the Victorian south-west coastline, and keep returned ANZACs off the street, the Great Ocean Road unwittingly became one of the country's greatest attractions. Indeed a monument to the Diggers was recently unveiled at Eastern View; it stands as a reminder that this road was made by hand, and not machine.
Work began on the Great Ocean Road back in 1918 and was completed 14, back-broken and blistered, years later in 1932 - it takes just hours to drive from one end to the other; a journey that before the road was built used to take days.
But, to be honest, you’d be mad to attempt the Great Ocean Road in a day. Not if you want to unwind and soak up the flavour of the place. I mean, each little township you pass through feels a million miles away from the last place, and they might only be a couple of kays apart. There are a bunch of caravan parks to stay at, either in the towns or just out of ’em, and some are literally on the water’s edge or just across the road from it.
On our drive we saw plenty of caravans being towed along and quite a few motorhomes too, and while the Great Ocean Road is tight in some sections, if you take it easy you'll be fine. Also, to keep traffic from bottling up, there are a number of turn-in bays and lookouts dotted along the road. Just be aware that at certain times of the year some lookouts will have parking meters on them.
But let's rewind. Due to some great timing by me (I'd planned to drive the Great Ocean Road right in the middle of the RV show season) not a single manufacturer had anything for us to test. However, Britz was smack in the middle of launching its latest recruit: the Rookie - a Volkswagen designed and built camper. Sure it doesn't have a kitchen, or a shower and toilet, but it's got a bed, an annexe and a small fridge for keeping sandwiches and drinks cool; it's ideal for weekends away. And it suited us perfectly.
The gang at Britz showed me how the tent fitted onto the tail-gate, how the seats folded down and then how the bed (it's a proper, comfy mattress) folds across the top of them, etc. I was impressed. Anyway, with the brain-bending stuff out of the way I waved goodbye to Britz, and snapper Phil and I hit the road.
Getting there
From Melbourne the idea was to head towards Geelong and then jump onto the Great Ocean Road. And we couldn't have had better weather for it either. It's a quick and easy drive from Melbourne to Geelong via the Western Ring Road and then the Princes highway. And once you're on that, well, you don't ever make a turn, because the Princes highway becomes the Great Ocean Road. Simple.
And if you're coming from Sydney, take the Hume Highway and then travel to Geelong via the Western Ring Road and Princes highway. And if you're coming from Adelaide, or Perth then you'll be looking for roads leading to Nelson, that's the western end of the Great Ocean Road near the South Oz border.
Okay, from Geelong you take the Surfcoast highway which takes you, in a straight line, directly to the ocean, Torquay and that mecca of surfing beaches: Bells. Now I'm not a surfer but even I was impressed with Bells beach. There are loads of carparks and lookouts and believe me it's easy to while away an hour or so watching the surfers catch waves. And if you're a surfer, have all of your gear, and are feeling brave, give surfing at Bells a shot.
But, if, like me, you don't know the difference between Hanging Ten and a Malibu (one's a surfboard) then get yourself to the Surfworld museum. It's in Torquay and you can't miss it as you roll into town. Recognised as the largest surfing and beach culture museum in the world, Surfworld has videos, surf memorabilia, photographs and biographies of surfing pioneers - it even has a board shaped by legend Duke Kahanamoku.
Torquay to Apollo Bay
Torquay itself is a touristy/surfer town, as you'd imagine, so if you're into that sort of thing, then hang around for a day or so, but if you've seen the beach and the museum, and poked your nose around town, then move along. There's plenty to see just down the road.
The Great Ocean Road ostensibly starts at Torquay but there are signs, etc scattered right along it, and so it's kind of hard to say 'right, it starts here, or there'. Anyway, from Torquay the road heads inland-ish and winds through some stunning hills and valleys before lobbing into Anglesea. If you've started out fairly early you'll probably be after some lunch by this stage. We were. Just as you head into town there's a little strip of shops with loads of cafes to suit all tastes and budgets, and if you want to stay a little longer then the Big 4 Anglesea Holiday Park or the Anglesea Beachfront Family Holiday Park are good places to start.
Get back on the Great Ocean Road and head towards Lorne which is a beautiful little town set right on the sea. Along the way the road runs right along the ocean offering passengers some absolutely breathtaking views; words don't do this place any justice at all. Eastern View is about halfway between Anglesea and Lorne and is the spot where a statue commemorating the building of the Great Ocean Road has been erected. It's a bronze statue of two Diggers, and for a photo opportunity there's a massive archway over the road with Great Ocean Road written on it. And for a minor visual distraction, check out the house on a stilt jutting out of the hillside not far from the statue. It's as bizarre-looking as it is cool.
Continue on to Lorne, and this part of the drive is probably my favourite, it's just what I expected the Great Ocean Road would be; the road basically runs along the shore.
Lorne is one of the bigger towns along the road and, as such, we just slunk on through. If you had more time it'd definitely be worth stopping in town for a couple of days as there's loads to do; you can either stay and play by the beach or head up into the hinterland and go horse riding or bush walking, etc.
We pushed on towards Apollo Bay, however, and the road continues on clinging to the rocks as it twists and turns its way down along the coast. It's just awesome, and if you had a sports car, well, it'd be one of those one-in-a-million driving experiences.
Apollo Bay is a great spot. With plenty of cool cafes, pubs and a handful of caravan parks it's a place well worth camping at for a couple of days. At Apollo Bay you could kid yourself you're a million miles from anywhere. It's a peaceful place, unless you're there during a concert like we were and then, as you'd expect, finding a site will be tough; the atmosphere was great, though. We found a patch of ground, thanks to the Rookie's diminutive dimensions, at the Apollo Bay Holiday Park. It's only a small park and is filled mainly with cabins but we scored a nice, non-powered grassy spot to park the Rookie amongst a bunch of tents next to the pool.
Cape Otway to Port Campbell
From Apollo Bay, the Great Ocean Road heads inland again avoiding Cape Otway and cutting through the centre of Otway National Park. Instead of blazing on through, take some time and head out to the lighthouse. The road (it's only 14km to the lighthouse) is clearly signposted. It's a wild coastline and with the Cape jutting out into the menacing, rock strewn sea you'll get a good idea why a lighthouse was so necessary and why the Cape was such a good spot for it.
You'll come to a fork in the road at Lavers Hill, and you'll need to take the left turn. The road on the right runs back to Geelong via Colac, and is an interesting route to take on your way back.
From here make your way toward Port Campbell and the road's most famous landmark: the Twelve Apostles. It's around the Twelve Apostles that the road takes on a more dramatic and windswept look. Stop at one of the many lookouts and watch the waves hurl themselves at the coastline - it's an impressive, humbling and awe-inspiring experience. Indeed, it chills you to the bone to consider what it would have been like sailing those waters in the 1800s.
Okay, try and time your visit to the Twelve Apostles to coincide with sunset and you'll be rewarded with one of the most spectacular light shows on earth. Take a camera. And then, once you've gazed at these stone pillars, some are 45 metres tall, get back in the car or motorhome and keep going to Port Campbell which is just down the road. This is a nice little town and the Port Campbell Cabin and Camping Park is a good base if you're planning to stay a night or two.
If you're after a bite to eat after a long day on the road then the pub is your best bet. Be sure to get in as early as you can because in the off-season shops close early and after 9pm you'll struggle to find a feed. It's worth taking a stroll around Port Campbell in the daylight, sure it's a sleepy little seaside fishing village but it has everything you could hope for, and more, in terms of food and sightseeing.
Port Campbell to Warrnambool
Between Port Campbell and Peterborough are, next to the Twelve Apostles, two of the most stunning-looking natural wonders: The Arch and London Bridge. Driving along this stretch of the coast you can't help but realise why there were so many shipwrecks; rocks jut out of the ocean everywhere and the sea seems so incredibly violent.
From Peterborough the road swings gently away from the sea and out into flat pastureland which continues on to, and beyond, Warrnambool. It's the regions bread basket, and was perfect for potatoes, which is why so many Irish immigrants settled down here. Indeed, and I'm getting ahead of myself now, a stroll around Port Fairy, the next town on the road, is like visiting a coastal Irish village. More later, though.
Once you’ve arrived in Warrnambool the first thing you absolutely have to do is visit Flagstaff Hill. Set on 10 acres, Flagstaff Hill attempts to recreate life in an 1870s coastal port; it helps to put flesh on the bones of the shipwreck coast. One of the highlights is the Great Circle Gallery which houses relics and treasures from various shipwrecks, the standout of which is the Minton earthenware statue, the Loch Ard Peacock. The Peacock was being transported from England to Australia for display at the Melbourne's Great International Exhibition of 1880, but the boat transporting it sank off the coast. The Loch Ard Peacock was washed ashore days later, still in its packing crate.
While you're visiting Flagstaff Hill, it'd be worth sticking around and watching the sound and light show: Shipwrecked. This show recreates the tale of the sinking of the Loch Ard clipper and the survival of just two of its passengers, Tom Pearce and Eva Carmichael. Don't forget to book, call: 1800-556-111.
Between June and September, Warrnambool is Victoria's Southern Right whale nursery, so time your visit to coincide and make sure you get down to Logan's Beach where the whales calve and often come within one hundred metres of the shore. There's plenty more to do and see in Warrnambool besides, but if it's a romantic little end to your time on the Great Ocean Road then keep pushing on to Port Fairy. Theoretically the Great Ocean Road finishes around Warrnambool, but you just have to keep going. Trust me.
Port Fairy
Squint, in Port Fairy, and you could almost kid yourself that you're in Ireland; indeed the town was, around 1825, renamed Belfast by a Sydney-based, Belfast-born, solicitor called James Atkinson who owned the land the town was built on. It reverted to its original name in 1885. The English/Irish-influenced architecture is due to the number of immigrants who settled in the town in the early 1800s.
One of the best things to do is simply to park your rig by the Moyne River and go for a stroll along the wharves. Head north along the river and you'll be able to see Griffiths Island which was set up in the early 1800s as a whaling station. The wharves are still used by commercial fisherman, and if you're after seafood it's the best place to go looking.
As for the rest of Port Fairy, well, believe me when I say that you'll want to stay here forever. It's just such an amazing town, and the locals are incredibly friendly. And the thing I like most is that it doesn't feel touristy.
Our journey along the Great Ocean Road ended at Port Fairy. And I learnt one thing. The Great Ocean Road is a great road to drive along in one day, but it's got a whole lot more flavour if you take your time like we did. Take your time and stop where you can. Enjoy.
Where to stay
Anglesea Beachfront Family Holiday ParkTelephone: (03) 5263 1583
Big4 Anglesea Holiday Park Telephone: (03) 5263 1640
Apollo Bay Holiday Park
Telephone: (03) 5237 7111
Belfast Cove Caravan Park
Telephone: (03) 5568 1816
Fig Tree Holiday Village
Telephone: (03) 5561 1233
Gardens by East Beach Caravan Park
Telephone: (03) 5568 1060
Great Ocean Tourist Park
Telephone: (03) 5598 5477
Marengo Holiday Park
Telephone: (03) 5237 6162
Ocean Beach Holiday Village
Telephone: (03) 5561 4222
Pisces Holiday Park
Telephone: (03) 5237 6749
Port Campbell Camping & Cabin Park
Telephone: (03) 5598 6492
Big4 Port Fairy Anchorage Holiday Park
Telephone: (03) 5568 1145
Skenes Creek Beachfront Park
Telephone: (03) 5237 6132
Torquay Holiday Resort
Telephone: (03) 5261 2493
Warrnambool Claremont Holiday Village
Telephone: (03) 5562 3376
Warrnambool Holiday Park
Telephone: (03) 5562 5031
This isn't an exhaustive list of caravan parks scattered along the Great Ocean Road, but it's a good starting point. For more information, visit
Victorian Caravan Parks Association
Article published in Caravan + RV magazine, Winter 2007. Words Isaac Bober, photos Phil Cooper.
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